The Fresh Energy of New York’s North Fork Wines
A new wave of sustainable wines from an up-and-coming region
I’d like to ask you a personal question: Do you have a wine wife? If not, can I recommend finding one ASAP? Similar in concept to a “work wife” or a “work husband,” this person is your co-pilot for wine adventures. And perhaps you’re itching to get to some wineries now that travel restrictions are easing.
My longtime wine wife is Jen. She’s just as obsessed with wine as I am. Together, we’ve studied wine, worked at wine magazines, and traveled to wine regions, from Burgundy to Sonoma. Unlike my husband who tolerates visiting one winery a day, Jen and I go marathon-style: We can easily spend eight to ten hours tasting, touring, and talking with winemakers. And then do it again, day after day.
Recently, pining to travel again, we realized we didn’t even need to hop on a flight: We could revisit the wines in our own backyard, on Long Island’s North Fork. At first, we hesitated. Over the years, we’d been to several tastings of these wines, and Jen had visited some of the wineries. They were on their way, but not yet ready for the main stage.
Regardless, we took a chance and booked a visit. And we were happy we did. These wines have come a long way in just a short time. Now they’re ready for the spotlight.
What to Know
Long Island is true to its name — a skinny strip of land extending east-northeast from New York City for about 120 miles. The island splits into two peninsulas, with the North Fork facing the Long Island Sound, and the South Fork facing the Atlantic Ocean. The South Fork is most famously home to the Hamptons, summer playground of rich New Yorkers. It’s also where you’ll find the region’s two best-known wineries, Wölffer Estate and Channing Daughters. But most of the island’s 60 wineries are located on the North Fork, and many of these are small, family-owned operations.
Long Island’s climate is similar to Bordeaux — cool with a strong ocean influence. Most wineries farm red Bordeaux varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. White varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Albariño, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, and Friulano.
The region has similar vine diseases as Bordeaux, including fungus and rot. For this reason, it’s rare to find Long Island wineries that are practicing organic or biodynamic. But we did find some notable exceptions on the North Fork that are both farming sustainably and making low intervention wines.
Not all wineries made the final cut, but three delivered the goods: Macari Vineyards, Rose Hill Vineyards, and Lieb Cellars. These wineries are pushing boundaries and finding their voices.
Pictured: Gabriella Macari and Byron Elmendorf of Macari Vineyards.
Macari Vineyards
Macari Vineyards is one of the region’s leaders in regenerative agriculture, with a focus on organic and biodynamic farming principles. The estate is home to a herd of cattle, used for composting, and grapes are grown without the use of herbicides. Macari’s vineyards were planted in 1995 and renowned biodynamic consultant Alan York helped the estate develop its vine-tending and composting regimen. The winery has a two-pronged approach that’s very compelling: part Bordeaux-style wines, part experimental wines that “embrace freshness and playfulness,” according to Gabriella Macari, who wears many hats at the winery. She and the Macari’s new winemaker Byron Elmendorf shared their latest experiments, including sparkling Cabernet Franc, skin-contact Friulano, and a lively Pinot Noir.
Rose Hill Vineyards
Following an ownership change a few years back, Shinn Estate Vineyards is now Rose Hill Vineyards. The winery farms organically, follows biodynamic principles, and is powered by solar panels and a wind turbine. I’ve long admired the estate as a national leader for transparent wine labels. It’s an issue I’m passionate about, and wrote about here. A Rose Hill label shows all ingredients. For example: Estate-grown grapes, indigenous yeast, and sulfur dioxide. Winemaker Patrick Caserta is making some compelling wines, including a concrete egg-fermented Sauvignon Blanc, both pale pink and darker-hued rosés, and a perfect summer red blend.
Lieb Cellars
Pinot Blanc is the raison d’être at Lieb Cellars, which started as a family-owned business and is now owned by a group of private investors, with its sister brand Bridge Lane. The winery’s sustainability mission includes a commitment to use organic and low-impact vine treatments, among other initiatives. Australian Russell Hearn is the long-time winemaker here, and has described his winemaking style as focusing on vineyard variations and varietal purity. The estate’s original 14 acres of Pinot Blanc that were planted in 1983 have expanded to 54 acres of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. But Pinot Blanc is the star here, in both sparkling and still wines.
As the region’s wines have grown up, so too has its hospitality experiences. These wineries all feature welcoming tasting rooms, where you can stop in for a wine flight paired with cheese and charcuterie boards. And if you head out to Long Island, be sure to bring along a wine pal. If you’re lucky, this person might just become your “Jen,” a long-term partner-in-wine.
Three to Try
Macari, “Horses” Sparkling Cabernet Franc 2020 ($28)
A wine that perfectly exemplifies the Long Island 2.0 I’m excited about. Where many wineries are focused on traditional winemaking programs, Macari is experimenting with a variety of techniques, including ancestral method sparklers like this one. Horses is everything you want in a pink summer wine, a thirst-quenching, red-berried sparkler that is delicious but doesn’t take itself to seriously. Take it to a picnic and pair with cold fried chicken and coleslaw.
Rose Hill, Non-Vintage Red Blend ($25)
Backyard grilling? This is the bottle. It’s a red blend made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh acidity and bright red fruit (black cherry, plum) lead the way, with gentle tannins making it an excellent match for vegetables and lighter proteins, like chicken kebabs, turkey burgers, and bratwurst.
Lieb Cellars, Estate Pinot Blanc 2020 ($24)
This Pinot Blanc is one of the most flavorful, concentrated versions I’ve yet sipped. The white wine is deeply aromatic, with pear and white blossoms expanding into lemon and yellow apple flavors on the palate. It has lively acidity and a finish that goes on and on. Pair this with a cheese plate or — as I did on Lieb’s patio — smoked trout with a crusty sourdough baguette.