Why It’s Time to Revisit California Chardonnay
In this pandemic winter of discontent, we could all use a little sunshine
I’ve never been a fan of Valentine’s Day, so today, I’m bringing you self care instead. If you’re located in a grey, chilly place right now, you probably need it. This winter has been fairly crappy in the Northeast, so I’ve been looking for small wins, little escapes. To boot: I’m not a bubble bath type, but I recently did an aromatherapy bath. It was ok. I’ve also tried all sorts of CBD gummies and tinctures; I’m finding that they’re great as a sleep aid. And I’ve been burning a crackly soy candle at my desk, which is surprisingly therapeutic.
But truly, nothing is getting me through the sub-zero, blah days better than a glass of wine sourced from somewhere I’d much rather be. Right now, I’m craving a visit to my former home of California. The Bay Area, LA, Santa Barbara — visiting anywhere in the state would make me deliriously happy. So I stocked up and tasted through a slew of California Chardonnays. They successfully pierced through my dull armor with a few rays of liquid sunshine. And I’m recommending my favorites to you.
What to know
You might be saying, why Cali Chard? Isn’t that the wine people love to hate? Yes and no. Let’s spin through the highlight reel:
We start in 1976, at what’s known as the Judgement of Paris. At a blind tasting for wine experts, a Napa Chardonnay outscores a group of Burgundy Chardonnays. That event makes waves, shocking the wine world and putting California Chardonnays on the map. Chardonnay production soars, and it becomes one of the state’s most produced varieties (along with Cabernet Sauvignon).
Fast forward to the mid 90s. This is when the critic Robert Parker was at his peak, and winemakers were keen to garner high scores. Parker has been called “an enemy of diversity, terroir, and nuance” in wine, which is to say he likes high alcohol, concentrated, opulent wines. In that era, there was a tendency for California Chardonnays to favor power over nuance.
Moving into the aughts, there’s a backlash against big wines. The ABC — Anything But Chardonnay — movement emerges in response to California’s raft of high alcohol, buttery, “oak bomb” Chards. Wine drinking tastes — for many consumers and critics — shift towards lighter bodied, higher acid wines.
That brings us to today, where we find ourselves in a more balanced place overall. There are great Cali Chards of all styles, from crisp, minerally examples to rich, buttery ones. In fact, these wines show just how stylistically flexible the grape can be.
So why are there so many styles of Cali Chard out there? Climactic and winemaking choices play together to influence a wine’s style. In cooler areas, Chards tend to be clean and crisp, with mouthwatering acidity, fresh flavors (lemon + white flowers + apples + chalk), and a lighter body. In warmer regions, Chards are more fruit forward, with riper, tropical flavors (lemon curd + mango + pineapple). They also tend to have higher alcohol, leading to a heavier body and a richer mouthfeel.
Then on to winemaking choices, notably the use of oak: Un-oaked wines are focused around acidity, fruit flavors, and minerality. Oaked wines — meaning they’ve been fermented or aged in oak barrels — have additional dimensions. Oak adds layers of flavor (including vanilla + baking spices + toast + caramel) and it provides an environment for secondary fermentation to occur, where tart malic acid (think green apples) turns into lactic acid (yes, the same as milk). So the wines become creamy in texture, just like milk.
Added up, these factors explain why Chardonnay has so many expressions. To me, the grape is totally fascinating and worth exploring. And there’s just so much pleasure to be had with Cali Chards, regardless of the style you prefer — especially right now, when we could all use a little more sunshine.
Four to try
I reenacted my own Judgement of Paris, ranking my top Chardonnays in order of preference.
Lioco Chardonnay, Sonoma County 2018 ($23)
I’m head over heels with this wine made by the wife-husband team of Sara and Matt Licklider. Lioco’s philosophy is to make sustainably farmed wines of nuance and balance. This is a crisp wine bursting with flavor (lemon curd + jasmine + yellow apple + seashells) and it has a creamy texture. This Chardonnay is a perfect pairing for mushroom risotto, slow-cooked salmon, or cacio e pepe pasta.
Smith-Madrone Chardonnay Napa Valley Spring Mountain District 2016 ($37)
This is a more opulent style of Chardonnay that is really well done, from brothers Stuart and Charles Smith, who founded this estate in 1971 and have been dry farming ever since. There’s a lot of complexity, moving between fruit (Meyer lemon, ripe pear), mineral, and oak influence (buttered toast + sweet spices). It’s creamy and full-bodied, but with enough acidity that you keep coming back for sip after sip. I had this wine with chicken pot pie, and it was fantastic.
Brea Wine Co., Santa Lucia Highlands Chardonnay 2019 ($19)
Chris Brockway, a noted California natural winemaker and owner of Broc Cellars is a partner in this affordable label that prioritizes sustainably farmed, balanced wines. The grapes are farmed biodynamically on a 43-year-old vineyard. Crisp acidity and bright flavors (lemon zest + apricots + yellow apple) make this a perfect seafood pairing. I’m thinking oysters, sautéed scallops, or a classic tuna Niçoise salad.
Au Bon Climat “Los Alamos” Chardonnay 2018 ($25)
This wine comes from legendary winemaker Jim Clendenen, whose mission for the past 40 years has been to make classic Burgundian-style wines in California. It’s the boldest and richest of the bunch, with many layers of flavors (lychee + pineapple + coconut + baking spices), in a weighty, full bodied package that still maintains a refreshing quality. Picking up on the sweet spice and toasty notes, this wine would be amazing with a cheese board (blue cheese, smoked cheddar, glazed pecans, dried apricots), pork roast with mashed potatoes, or a nut-crusted chicken. P.S.: This wine is a total crowdpleaser. It’s well-priced and widely available — a slam dunk for people who like richer Chards.