Psst! Some Insane Values are Coming Out of Chile
Wines made from 100 year-old vines — for $20? That’s unheard-of.
A few months before the pandemic hit, I traveled to Chile to learn about the country’s wines. I’d long viewed these wines skeptically, as value-priced bottles that were somewhat generic. But what I found in Chile was eye opening: Producers there were making some exceptional juice.
These were the type of terroir transparent, fresh and vibrant wines that get me pulling out the bullhorn to evangelize. The producers I discovered were farming organically, reinvigorating centuries-old vineyards, and pioneering new regions. These wines weren’t just great values — they were thrilling.
TL;DR — If you’re looking to get the most bang for your buck at around $20, Chilean wine should be on your list.
What to know
Chile has a long winemaking history that dates back to the Spanish conquistadors of the 16th century. Notably, the country never got hit with the phylloxera aphid that ravaged Europe’s vineyards in the 1800s, so Chile’s vineyards have ungrafted rootstocks (more info here). In the modern era, the country has been known for making Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlot, and other international varieties, but those aren’t the wines that get me excited.
What I’m psyched about is the old-vine wines made from País, Carmenère, and Cinsault, from vineyards that are 50 years — or even 200 years old. Old-vine wines tend to have more depth and complexity than those made from younger vines, but they yield less juice and thus are pricier to make. Old-vine wines from France can easily run you $100 or more a bottle. Getting these wines for around $20 — that hardly ever happens!
A quick primer on Chile’s old-vine grapes:
País — This was Chile’s primary variety for 300 years, until overtaken by Cabernet Sauvignon. Also known as the Mission grape, it makes light, easy-drinking red wines, similar to Beaujolais but with more tannic grip. You may see it labeled as Pipeño, Chile’s everyday drinking wine.
Carmenère — This French grape was misidentified as Merlot for decades in Chile, until the 1990s. It has similar characteristics to Cabernet Franc, but at a lower price point. These wines range from juicy and fresh to plush and pillowy, with crushed berry, eucalyptus, and herbal tea flavors.
Cinsault — Introduced to Chile in the mid-19th century, this grape is known for bright aromatics (red fruit + purple flower), vibrant acidity, and low tannins. These are juicy and fresh glou-glou wines — delicious with a slight chill.
The climate in Chile near perfect for grape growing — it’s the Southern Hemisphere’s equivalent to California. The country is long and narrow, with a Mediterranean climate and coastal mountain ranges, where morning fog rolls in, which slows ripening and allows complex flavors to develop (sound familiar? Think coastal Sonoma). There are key classic regions like Acongcagua and the Colchagua Valley.
But I’m most interested in what’s happening in the southernmost regions of Itata Valley and the Bío Bío region. These are some of the coolest winemaking areas, and where small, organic producers are making minimal intervention wines.
Can’t-Miss Bottles
It was tough to narrow this list! There are so many great wines I want to tell you about, so I included some options.
Rogue Vine, Grand Itata, Red Wine 2019 ($20)
Amazing value. This Cinsault and País blend comes from two friends who have resurrected old vineyards in the Itata Valley. They dry-farm bush vines that are a minimum of 60 years old, with some older than 100 years. The winemaking is low intervention: Native yeast fermentation in concrete globes, old barrels, no corrections, and minimal sulfur. This wine is all about crunchy red fruit with supporting spice and earthiness. It’s a juicy, refreshing, medium-bodied red with a compelling silky texture and lingering finish. Pair with a cheese and charcuterie board or niçoise salad.
Also try: Longavi, Glup Cinsault, 2019 ($19); De Martino, Gallardia, Cinsault 2018 ($20)
Roberto Henriquez, Santa Cruz de Coya, País 2019 ($27)
Roberto Henriquez is Chile’s País whisperer, making what many consider to be the most elegant País wines. He farms in organically on mountain vineyards in the southerly Bío Bío region. (To learn more about him, here’s a great story about rediscovering País that I commissioned at VinePair.) This wine is made from a 200-year old vineyard! Red fruit, sage, and eucalyptus lead the nose, which deepen into earth and spice on the palate. The wine has mouthwatering acidity and a silky texture similar to Pinot Noir, with a drying finish. Try it with pizza or a simple red-sauced pasta.
Also try: Roberto Henriquez, Pipeño, Pais Bio Bio 2016 ($25); J Bouchon Pais Viejo 2019 ($14)
Clos de Luz "Massal 1945," Carmenère, Rapel Valley ($20)
This wine comes from Clos de Luz, an organic family winery that boasts some of the oldest Carmenère vineyards in Chile (and possibly the world). Red fruit and green peppercorn aromas give way to berries and wild herbs on the palate, with lively acidity and smooth tannins. It is fresh but with some weight, a great pairing for roasted meats (chicken, pork) or grilled vegetables.
Also try: Casa Silva, Los Lingues Vineyard, Carmenère 2018 ($19)