A New Generation of Grenache Wines

Once overlooked, the heat-loving grape gets its moment in the sun

Recently, I visited Aspen to try some new wines IRL at the Food & Wine Classic. It was my first walk-around tasting in 18 months. And what stood out the most? It was Grenache, in all its glorious forms. 

The grape is having a moment. It was well represented in Aspen, and I’ve been seeing it all over restaurant by-the-glass lists. Here’s why that’s notable: For most of its history, Grenache was a team player, a blending partner for grapes like Syrah, Mourvedre, and Tempranillo. But now it’s in the spotlight, showcased on its own in single varietal bottlings.

Grenache, to me, is a joyful wine of remarkable range. It can be straightforward and crowd-pleasing, turning out juicy, fruity reds that are a phenomenal value at around $10. And it also makes wines of haunting beauty, like those from Chateau Rayas in France’s Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which sell for more than $1,000 — for a single bottle. If you haven’t yet tried Grenache, it’s time to pick up one of these wines — and I’ve got a bunch to recommend.

What to Know

Grenache is a workhorse grape — relatively unknown and under-appreciated because of its history as a blending staple. It originally hails from Spain, where it’s called Garnacha. By the 18th century, it had moved into southern France, and has been an important component of both red and rosé wine production in both countries since then. The vine is hardy, drought-resistant, and easy to graft. This was key to its broad propagation in Europe’s Mediterranean areas during the late 19th-century phylloxera epidemic. 

By the end of the 20th century, Grenache was the world’s second most-planted variety, but you’d hardly know it. Even now, Grenache is the seventh most-planted grape, though it gets far less attention than Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, which are further down the list.

Although plantings of Grenache have declined over the past two decades, the grape’s popularity and visibility have risen. That’s thanks to the growing demand for light- to medium-bodied red wines, and the increase of single-variety Grenache bottlings. Suddenly, Grenache is everywhere.

And now, these wines are being made in a lighter style. Grenache has always been known as a generous, flavorful wine, brimming with fruit and spices. I most often taste red fruit (especially cherries) and sweet spices like cola, star anise, and cinnamon. But where old-school Grenache was higher alcohol and heavier bodied, today’s versions are more nuanced. These next-gen Grenaches are pale red and translucent in the glass, and silky on the palate. They still have richness, but in a medium-bodied package with lower alcohol and finer tannins than before. 

Key Grenache wines and regions: 

Spain — Historically, the grape has been paired with Tempranillo in Rioja’s long-lived blends, and with Carignan and others to make structured Priorat wines. But more and more, Garnacha is the star, appearing solo on wine labels. Producers to look for: Bernabeleva, Comando G, Herència Altés, Jimenez-Landi.

France — Grenache is important in the blends of the southerly Rhône and Languedoc-Roussillon regions. Many Côtes du Rhône blends feature Grenache as a first ingredient, and the grape is also essential to the prestigious wines of Gigondas and Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It’s rare to find 100% Grenache in France due to appellation rules that require blending, but there are a handful of exceptions. Producers to look for: Pierre Andre, Chateau de Beaucastel, Domaine de Creve Coeur, Eric Laguerre, Les Pallieres. 

California — Grenache came to the state in the 1860s and was used in early field blends. Those had fallen out of favor by the time the Rhone Rangers — a group of winemakers interested in making Rhone-style wines — came along and started using the old-vine fruit in their wines in the 1980s. Single-variety Grenache is now being made around the state, from Paso Robles to Sonoma. Producers to look for: AmByth, A Tribute to Grace, Fine Disregard, Jolie-Laide, Tablas Creek.

Australia — Once one of the country’s most widely grown red varieties, Grenache was mostly blended until the recent era. Now, the southerly McLaren Vale region has emerged as a top place to make Grenache, and this is where you’ll find fresh, perfumed Grenache wines. Producers to look for:  Bella Ridge, Brash Higgins, d’Arenberg, Jauma, Koerner, Paxton, Yangarra.

While these are some key areas for Grenache, the grape is also seeing a renaissance in places like Argentina and South Africa. At this point, excellent Grenache wines are being made the world over. 

Three to Try

I’m always looking for top value wines from organic, biodynamic, and otherwise sustainable producers. I know it can be tough to find these wines depending on which state you’re in, but the producers I recommended above farm sustainably and make affordable Grenache wines. 

Also, I’ve gotten feedback that folks are especially excited to see $15 and under bottles. Here are some Grenache wines I recommend at that price point: Domaine de Creve Coeur, Domaine de Périllière, and this custom blend from importer Kermit Lynch. Moving up in price, these are some of my recent favorites. 

Ver Sacrum, “G.S.M. Los Chacayes,” Uco Valley, Argentina ($20) 

I’ve been drinking this widely available, crowd-pleasing wine for years — it’s consistently delicious from year to year, so feel comfortable buying any vintage you find. This lush, juicy wine is a Grenache-dominant blend with Syrah and Mourvedre. Low intervention winemaker Eduardo Soler grows and vinifies Rhone grapes in Argentina’s Uco Valley. It’s brightly flavored with black cherry, blackberry, cinnamon, and clove in a medium-bodied frame with fresh acidity and a velvety texture. (Ver Sacrum also makes a Garnacha that’s tougher to find, but a great value at $18).

Fine Disregard, Grenache “Altas Piedras Vineyard,” Alexander Valley, CA 2016 ($30)

Is this wine on every by-the-glass list in NYC? I keep coming across it, and for a simple reason: It’s delicious. It’s also well priced for a small-production wine made from a dry-farmed, biodynamic vineyard in Sonoma. The nose offers up black cherries, raspberries, wild herbs, and black pepper. That follows on the palate with mouthwatering acidity, a silky texture, and supple tannins. 

Yangarra, Ovitelli Grenache, McLaren Vale, Australia 2016 ($45)

Worth the splurge. I tasted the 2019 vintage and fell in love with it. Alas, it’s not yet available in the US. However, all of the Grenache wines from this biodynamic producer are stunning. When I talk about how Grenache can be haunting and magical, this is one of the wines I’m referring to. There are still a few 2016 bottles out there — it was rated 95 point by Wine Enthusiast, making the price tag seem very affordable. They referred to it as, “A tightrope walk of power and elegance, the bright, juicy fruit and savory, mineral nuances flow right through to the finish.” That holds true for the 2019. I’d happily pick up any vintage I could find. (Here’s the 2018 for $50.)