On Pairing Wines with "The Power of the Dog"
Why sustainable reds from Paso Robles are the perfect match
Appearances can be deceiving. That’s a central theme in “The Power of the Dog,” Jane Campion’s latest film, set in the American West in the 1920s. The picture won the 2022 Oscar for Best Director, and was nominated in 11 other categories, with a cast that includes Benedict Cumberbatch, Kirsten Dunst, Jesse Plemons, and Kodi Smit-McPhee. [Note: Spoilers ahead.]
When we first meet Peter [Smit-McPhee], he’s a shy teenager crafting paper flowers at his widowed mother’s inn and restaurant. His life changes when the wealthy brothers Phil [Cumberbatch] and George [Plemons] Burbank come through on a cattle drive. The domineering Phil mocks Peter’s lisp and effeminate manner, while mild-mannered George falls for and eventually marries Rose [Dunst].
For a spell, the film evolves as if it’s a straightforward Western, centered around Rose’s new life on the ranch. But no! Twists and turns are coming. Assumptions around strength and power — for both the characters and the viewers, in a meta way — are about to be challenged.
As the film progresses, Phil terrorizes Peter and Rose. At every turn, it seems as if they’ll meet their demise. But layers unfold, hidden desires emerge, and power dynamics shift. Phil, the pursuer, is pursued. By the time the ending arrives, you realize your assumptions about who holds power are dead wrong. Peter emerges the victor, emboldened by his drive to save Rose.
Some critics have called the film too oblique. But I find “The Power of the Dog” to be deliciously subversive, a masterclass in misdirection. I watched it again and again, drinking in the tension and revisiting scenes, parsing their meaning (like this one).
In considering wines that would pair best with “The Power of the Dog,” I played with the possibilities. The wines had to share in the style and ethos of the American West. They needed to play with strength and power. But they couldn’t be straightforward. They had to challenge a drinker’s expectations in some impactful way.
The answer? Wines from Paso Robles, California.
Photo credit: Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
What to Know
Paso Robles is most definitely the Wild West of wine. Located on California’s Central Coast, about 3 hours north of Los Angeles, Paso is a place where cattle ranching, farming, and winemaking have deep roots.
The region has a maverick spirit that goes way back: Drury James, uncle to outlaw Jesse James, was one of the town’s founders in the early 19th century. By the time the railroad arrived in the 1880s, European settlers had already planted vines and started the region’s first wineries.
Today, Paso has a reputation for sun-baked, high alcohol wines. Cabernet Sauvignon is the most-planted grape, followed by Merlot, made into Bordeaux-style blends or single varietal wines. There are high-end Cab brands, but also a lot of industrially made supermarket wines — to the tune of millions of cases a year. These are the “Phil” wines, big and bold, but lacking nuance.
But beyond the surface, and there’s a more compelling story waiting to be told. Paso Robles has pockets of innovation — if you know where to look.
So I went straight to the source, Jason Haas. Haas is general manager at Tablas Creek Vineyard, the region’s most acclaimed producer. It’s also a global leader in sustainability, recently becoming the world’s first Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) winery. (This is something I’ll talk about more in future issues, but suffice to say ROC is the new gold standard for organics, with pillars for soil health, animal welfare, and farmworker fairness.)
According to Haas, Paso has a few things going for it right now. “Paso is still defining what it is in peoples’ minds,” he says. “It doesn’t come to the market with the idea that there is a ‘right’ grape to grow here. And that gives people the freedom to try things that are new.”
That means a ton of experimentation — planting different grapes; making wines in a fresher, less extracted way; and testing out sustainable practices. Aside from the big, bold Cabs, Paso’s wines tend to fall into three key camps:
Rhone varieties — French varieties like Syrah, Grenache, Viognier, and Roussanne have a long legacy in Southern California (see Rhone Rangers).
Zinfandel — Sip a Zinfandel from Paso and you’re tasting history, possibly from vines that were planted before Prohibition! These reds tend to be higher alcohol than I usually like, but in the right hands, they can be elegant and complex, with intense fruit character.
Other varieties — Vintners have found success with Spanish varieties like Albariño and Tempranillo, and Italian grapes like Nebbiolo, Barbera, Aglianico, and Vermentino.
Land prices are more reasonable than in other California regions, according to Jason. That reality has led to a boom in winemaking upstarts, many of which are headquartered out of Paso’s urban winery warehouse district, Tin City.
Add to that a huge amount of geographic and geologic variation in areas that range from 10 to 40 miles from the Pacific, with a mix of elevations, soils, and microclimates that make Paso a great place to grow grapes and farm sustainably.
But back to “The Power of the Dog”: If I had to choose just one wine to pair with the film, it would be Tablas Creek’s 2019 Patelin de Tablas Red (~$25). You think you’re drinking a powerful red blend from Paso Robles, which have historically been on the richer and heavier side. But no! The wine is fresh and lively, at a surprisingly low (13%) alcohol level for a Rhone-style wine. It’s an incredible value for the price, one of those bottles where my husband I kept remarking on how crazy delicious it was, until it was empty and we ordered several more bottles.
The wine is also deliciously subversive, challenging drinkers’ expectations. Until recently, there was a widespread assumption that sustainably-made wines weren’t as “good” as conventional wines. Studies are now disproving that idea, showing that it’s the opposite. Organic and biodynamic wines actually score higher in many expert ratings. And Tablas Creek has played an important role, helping to shift perceptions with its consistently top scoring wines.
That’s good news for wine drinkers who want to vote with their dollars, spending on mission-driven bottles.
Producers to Try
AmByth Estate — Jason described AmByth as a winery that’s “setting the edge and pushing it forward.” In addition to biodynamic farming, and completely natural winemaking, the winery dry farms its vineyards. As drought conditions intensify, AmByth’s commitment to dry farming been challenging, as discussed in this New York Times piece. Try the gingery, amphora-aged Riesling (~$28) or the bright, amphora-aged Zinfandel (~$38), with the lowest alcohol I’ve ever seen for a Zin at 12.5%.
Giornata — Italian varieties are the focus at Giornata, a small organic and biodynamic producer with a tasting room in the hip, makers market Tin City. Jason pointed to the winery as one to watch for its experimentations with a range of grapes. Try the zippy Vermentino (~$30), juicy Barbera (~$25), or bold Nebbiolo (~$45).
Ridge Vineyards — Based to the north in Monterey, Ridge is a sustainability leader in the region, farming organically and using regenerative practices. The wines it makes in Paso Robles include Zinfandels from multiple Paso Robles vineyards, and one from the historic Dusi vineyard planted in the 1940s. And a rich, textured Grenache Blanc (~$31) that I always have on hand.
Tablas Creek — A pioneer of the American Rhone movement, the winery was founded in 1989 by the Perrin family, proprietors of Château de Beaucastel, and the Haas family of Vineyard Brands. In addition to the lively Patelin de Tablas Red, try the generous, floral Patelin de Tablas Blanc (~$25), and the vibrant, spicy Côtes de Tablas Red (~$35). Also, be sure to explore the fascinating single-varietal bottlings of rare grapes like Bourboulenc and Vaccarese.
Turley — Turley farms organically and works with old-vine vineyards across California, including a Zinfandel vineyard in Paso Robles that was planted in 1885. Led by cult winemaker Tegan Passalacqua, the winery’s Paso wines include several Zinfandels, a Petite Syrah, and a red blend. On the value end, look for Turley’s Paso Robles Zinfandel (~$35) and Zinfandel Juvenile (~$30).